Sunday, March 27, 2011

Back on American soil: exploring Normandy.

Another week, another post. 
We were fortunate again this week to take part in an excursion offered by our program to Normandie (the French spelling).  After our 6:30 departure, we arrived at the museum at 9:30 ready to begin our day.  The museum started with an explanation of the end of the first World War to adequately explain how Hitler and Mussolini came to power.  And as you wandered through, it gradually told the chronological tale of how the war came to be.  Personally, I am already a WWII fanatic, but there was still SO MUCH information I had never seen.  It was also really interesting because, in general, the French are a very proud culture, and they are very wary of admitting mistakes (read: Algeria), but the museum was one of the first times I have seen the French profess failure.  They acknowledged how half of their government gave over the Jewish population and the nation to the Nazis when threatened, and how it was by the help of the United States and Britain that they were able to regain their country.  In general, I think it is so interesting to see how what we’re taught as American students is different than what French or Asian students are taught. 
We thought two hours would be plenty for the museum, but it truly was not and we ended up not making it to the section on the invasion of Normandy before our required video.  So for future reference: you need three hours in the museum.  The video was good, but what I took away from it, and what I reflected on for the remainder of the day as we visited other sites, was how these soldiers knew they were running into almost certain death, but did it without hesitating.  No one held back as the others stormed the beach.  No one refused to be the first to climb the rope ladder as Nazis machine gunned them from the top.  No one sacrificed their comrade for their own good.  It was a day where thousands of men completely gave of themselves to save the world as we know it.  That absolute giving-of-self was so moving, and was only made more moving by the American cemetery.

This part of the trip was initially exciting because we were back on American soil—something we were all very excited for.  But we entered the cemetery and saw 9387 white crosses lined up over several acres, all shallow notions of America were replaced by the extreme pride and thanks we felt for our soldiers who came to save this country.  It was a bittersweet mixture of sadness and pride, but an absolutely beautiful site to experience.

We then reloaded the buses to get down to Omaha beach.  There, we had exactly 15 minutes to play in the sand where thousands of soldiers charged in the name of freedom up the cliffs towards enemy fire.  Again, I just cannot imagine being there that day and seeing the cliffs full of Nazis and charging on selflessly. 

It is really eerie though, that these beaches are absolutely stunning today.  If it wasn’t for the historical value, I’m sure they would be vacation hot-spots, but alas, who wants to build a giant sandcastle where a 17 year old soldier died?  We did take a few happy pictures though, because the beaches are, I suppose a sign of victory and the turning point of the war, so some happiness should come from those beaches!
 
Next we went to Pointe du Hoc, which is a really interesting story.  During the morning of June 6, a group of American soldiers called the Rangers were sent to Point du Hoc, one of the most well-fortified points on the Atlantic coast.  The Nazis were allegedly storing French guns that had long enough range to hit both Omaha and Utah beaches.  The Allies needed to take these guns out or risk them being used on the soldiers on D-Day.  So the Rangers get dropped off (mind you, three miles from their intended target because of the current that day), and then look up at the cliffs where they now must climb up on rope ladders while being gunned down by Nazis.  As if the task isn't heroic enough, once they get up there, their reinforcements don't arrive and they have to fight hand-to-hand combat for three days while they search for the guns, which had been moved to a mile away (and which they did eventually find).  Sadly, only around 90 survived, but their tale is truly heroic.  The area is pretty damaged from the bombs that the Allies dropped, but many of the bunkers and pill boxes are still in tact and we were able to wander through them while Kaitlin, our resident ROTC student, educated us on everything military. 

Our last stop was the German cemetery.  I thought it was really interesting that France has a cemetery for all the German soldiers who died.  Even though it was small and very modest, there are twice as many German soldiers buried here as there were American soldiers at the American cemetery.  And, there is more than one body in each plot.  Very interesting.
So that was our day in Normandie.  I really do think that it was a perfect place to visit while in France because it so well ties together my studies here and the culture I’m living in to my home.  It felt really good to be American for a day and to be proud of where I’m from, rather than ashamed of my “obnoxious American-ness.”  So with a full heart, I can honestly say that after this weekend, I am so proud to be an American.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Lyon and Tigres (french for tiger) and Bears..Oh My

Slainte!  The fighting Irish brought St. Patty’s to France despite the glares from…well everyone else.  Actually, France was relatively supportive of the Irish shenanigans and we found an Irish pub who had a band playing U2 covers for the entire night (imagine Bono with a French accent).  It was a wonderfully strange experience.
The next morning I wrapped up midterms week with a sociology test.  Midterms were not fun—not as bad as ND, but still.  That evening, a few of us went to a soufflerie (where they make soufflés) and it was AMAZING.--so amazing that I asked Chantal to teach me to make one tonight!  So cooking lesson number two commences in t-minus 17 minutes.
I went to bed early so I could be up in time for my 7a.m. train to Lyon and could start my weekend of French exploration.  We checked into our little hotel which was likely filled with members of the French mafia who were sipping espresso, but they were all very friendly so thumbs up to them.  Then we began wandering Lyon, which is the third largest metropolitan area in France. 
Lyon is really interesting because it is divided into several different sections, mostly because the city is naturally divided into three by the two rivers that run directly through it.  To the west, you have old town.  There, after climbing a giant hill, we found some Roman ruins.  Apparently, Lyon used to be a Roman town.
 
Then we went to Notre Dame de Fourvière, a large cathedral that puts the Basilica to shame. 
 
We also found Mary, who was spending spring break in France.
 
Then we wandered through the small, winding, cobblestone streets.  This is also where guignols were made.  Creepy right?
 
There are also underground tunnels here because Lyon was also an important area in weaving and producing silk and they were used to transport silk.  They were also used in the second world war to avoid Gestapo invasions.  Unfortunately, we didn’t really find them.
 
After our brief history stint, we hit the shopping/a la mode district in the center.  There we did some shopping and then decided to see an opera!  For 5 euros, we could stand in the back and see “Le noce de Figaro” which was AMAZING!! It was in Italian, but there were French subtitles being projected on a screen (you have no idea how good your French is until Italian is the only other option).  We only stayed for half because we hadn’t eaten but I would love to return to see the entire opera.

To soothe our aching stomachs, and to fully experience Lyon’s cuisine (it is the capital of gastronomy in France!) we went on a hunt for a bouchon.  In old-time Lyon, chefs would come to these bouchons (inns) to practice their culinary skills.  Then Lyon realized the inns were worthless and people just wanted to eat, so now they are just incredibly good restaurants.  Now the thing with French menus is, you don’t usually know what you’re ordering.  We usually guess and almost always we end up with decent results.  We decided to fully experience the cuisine, we should get three courses—because that’s how Lyon does it.  I got the best salad France has ever seen..mostly because it had what tasted like American bacon on it.  Then I had ordered an andouilette because it was the only thing I was sure was not fish.  Quelle surprise:
 
Looks interesting, but it was actually very good.  Then we followed that up with our third course, dessert:
 
After we waddled home, we fell into a deep coma.  The next morning, we asked for directions to the closest Catholic mass, which our concierge insisted started at 10.  At 9:58 we walked in as the priest was finishing up his homily…awkward.  After mass we found the closest boulangerie and got a loaf of bread and coffee…I have no idea how we were hungry again but we were.  After wandering back to the old village, we made the 40 minute trek to Parc de la Tete d’Or (Park of the Golden Head…yeah..idk). 
 
This park was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.  It had a rose garden and a zoo and a lake where you could canoe or paddle boat and it was simply the best place to spend the first day of spring.  We spent two hours roaming around the gardens and then finally headed back to Angers.
 
On tap we have a light week for studies, then Normandy next weekend.  Hope all is well at home…miss you all!! xoxo

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Midterms week...it exists here too.

I have 15 minutes before I need to go read to the ladies at the retirement home.  Let’s get a blog post out by then so I am not bombarded by insults and requests any longer.

In light of the exam I just took, I am going to postpone stories of wandering the gardens of Clos Lucé and staring down gargoyles in Blois for another day.  Instead, I am going to answer my readers’ most pressing question: do I actually go to class here?

Indeed I do.  I am currently taking 18 credit hours but Notre Dame likes to pretend that three of those don’t exist so I am only getting credit for 15.  Thanks again ND.  To give you a run down:
-Langue (language and grammar)-so long, so many days.
-Socio Étude Culturelle (French culture studies)-Want to know all the presidents of the fifth republic?  I don’t know if I can even name the last five presidents in American (jokes..I think.)
-Histoire de France (French history)-for some reason I am loving history.  I’m pretty sure I’ve told every person I talk to this random fact but: once you’re guillotined you retain consciousness for 10 seconds. Weird stuff. 
-Molière-Molière was a French playwright and I am binging on his plays for a semester.  He is a rather funny fellow but this class is only once a week for three hours so it can be a little brutal for those of us who don’t have an attention span that long.
-Traduction (translation)-holy moly there goes my GPA.  This class is practical and I really like it but SO CHALLENGING.  To illustrate how challenging it is let me provide the grading scale for this class (out of 20 points)
20-reserved for God
19-reserved for Jesus Christ
18-reserved for the Virgin Mary
17-reserved for my professor
16-this is what you can get if you turn in an absolutely perfect paper (good thing I have no idea what that looks like).  For us mere mortals, we’re in the 8-13 zone.  Not good my friends.
You all probably think I am being sassy right now, but no.  This exact chart is in my notes which I copied verbatim from the lips of my professor.  So why isn’t the scale just out of 16 points?  I don’t know.  Why is my professor only one less point from the Virgin Mary?  I don’t know that either.  But welcome to France my dear readers!
The other thing that is much different than my quaint home under the Dome is the scheduling of classes.  For example, if you are registering for classes (DARTing if you will), classes tend to be MWF (psh who takes Friday classes??—So MW for Arts and Letters) or Tues/Thurs.  This makes life simple and you can get into a routine fairly easily.  Then you come to France, and there is no rhyme or reason for when any of your classes are scheduled.  Case and point:
Langue: Mon/Tues 9:00-11:00am, Thurs 10:00am-12:00pm
Socio-Etude: Mon 1:30-3:30pm, Fri 1:30-2:30
History : Thurs 1 :30-3 :30pm, Fri 2 :30-3 :30pm
Moliere : Thurs 3:45pm-7:45pm
Translation: Mon 6:00-7:00pm, Wed 8:00-9:00am
So things are a little haphazard here.  In addition, we don’t know when/where our finals are until the week of finals.  Our professors just decide…eventually.
Final notes on my education here:  in general, my classes aren’t that challenging, mostly because the professors are teaching to students who speak approximately 12 different languages.  I think we have it quite a bit easier because English words often resemble French ones, but the Asian students (who compose a large majority of our program) have very little to work with.  [Side note: please pray for all the Japanese students here who cannot get in contact with their families or who have received terrible news.]  However, I am learning a lot about different cultures which is a really great experience.  I also am adjusting to having class on Fridays AND before 10:00a.m….it’s like I’m no longer an Arts and Letters major.
I am also forced to use the language everyday in all my classes, with my host family, in shops and restaurants, etc. so I am improving greatly which is what I truly came here to do.  And if all else fails, I am learning a lot about French food through my own studies so all is not lost.  Bon appetite mes amis!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Une Melange: Chateaux, Cooking, Biking and God

Bon Dimanche!  What a beautiful day in Angers!  It’s sunny and warm and just a perfect day to appreciate all the blessings we have today.
Before I get too deep into my French excursions, I must say that God has sent me special gifts twice this week (in addition to the million he sends me every other day).  Earlier this week I was upset and emotional (shocking right?) and was having a hard time concentrating and getting out of my own head.  I needed to kill some time so I decided to go to the library…not somewhere I normally venture here.  I sat down and spread out my homework and a little old man sat across the table from me.  I didn’t really pay attention but just looked down at my homework and suddenly felt this sense of calm (again…not something I normally feel when looking at my work).  I sped through the work and then took a moment just to realize it was the first moment I had felt at peace in over 24 hours.  I started packing my bag and finally took a good look at the man sitting across the table from me…he was a French priest.  Quietly filling out his crossword puzzle he had chosen to sit at my table even though there were plenty of seats elsewhere.  I know God sent him to my table to remind me that things always work out and that I need to relax and put everything in God’s hands.

Today I received a very different gift.  After taking a “shortcut” to mass, I sat down in a pew and soon after an older couple came in with a young son and sat in front of me.  This young boy had Down Syndrome but was just a beautiful child who was enjoying the adventure of being in church.  He had trouble sitting still, but his father was so patient and gentle with him that it was just a beautiful reminder of how many good people are on this Earth and how God sends us gifts in the most unexpected packages.

Okay, now that I have completely gone off my usual track, let’s get back to French adventures:
This weekend I chose not to partake in the trips leaving the country and instead chose to spend a weekend in beautiful Angers.  I started Friday with watching Up and Jersey Shore…I just needed some America time haha.  After class, Micahlyn and I made the trek to Super-Geant which is the French equivalent of a super WalMart.  This seemingly simple place is so rare in France where people shop at tiny marchés and we had fun wandering through the aisles (where we found peanut butter!!).  After gathering enough food to make two feasts, we realized we now had to bike all this back to my house where we could prepare dinner.  Other than the sheer amount of things we had to carry, the greatest problem was that we had to bike over a bridge…this was particularly difficult for Micahlyn who had three baguettes in her basket which were creating quite a blind spot.

But alas we made it home and made brushetta, garlic bread, an eggplant-tomato tarte, salad, and an apple pie for the ND kids who stuck around Angers.

The next morning we ventured to the market, which was massive!  We wandered through stands of jewelry, scarves, clothes, produce, live chickens, and furniture, but we settled on some pretty basic things for our purchases (I didn’t think Chantal would appreciate me keeping a live chicken in the house).
Shortly after, Micahlyn and I took off for a bike ride.  It was so nice to leave Angers and bike through small French towns, farms with sheep, and cross beautiful bridges over the many rivers in the region.  We could not have asked for a more beautiful day.  We finished the evening by preparing a Mexican meal and enjoying some time with the other ND students.
 

 

I owe you a post from last weekend too about my castle-tours.  So here it is…stop now if you’re already bored. 
CIDEF was so kind to let us sleep in on Saturday…we only had to be at the Catho at 7:45 to begin our tour.  As we had done the previous week, we all assumed we could sleep on the three hour trip to the first chateau..wrong.  We had a microphone-happy tour guide who had some strange fascination with rocks and useless facts who decided 8 a.m. was the perfect time to be peppy.  Not okay.

We arrived at Azay de Rideau while it was raining and sped through the castle before going on a hunt for coffee. 

After a successful feat, we got back on the bus and headed to chateau number two: Chenonceau. Chenonceau is where it got interesting.  Number one, Chenonceau is built over a river, so the most classic shot  of the castle is the arches and their reflections (see below).  
A few random facts:
-Chenonceau is one of the few privately owned large castles…meaning I aim to buy it from the current owner.  The people who currently own it invented having a chocolate bar that breaks into smaller pieces (like how Hershey bars have 16 pieces or whatever..)…so if anyone can do better than that I would love to marry you.  Thanks.
-When Louis XIV visited Chenonceau he brought a massive painting of himself and hung it in the castle…think he could have found a smaller frame?
-Chenonceau was used as a hospital in WWI.  In WWII, the front door of the castle was in the Nazi-occupied zone while the southern door was in the Free Zone.  The castle was used as a way to get people to freedom.
-Louise de Lorraine painted her bedroom purple and black and painted tears all over the ceiling after her husband, King Henry III was assasinated.  She retreated to the castle with a group of nuns so she could mourn.  Her room is called the room of tears and is one of the most depressing places I’ve ever been.
It is also known for its gardens…but alas it is February in France so the gardens were not abloom.  They were still very pretty and I hope to return once I marry a wealthy American (...this is Chantal’s life goal for me.  So glad we’re on the same page).
So Chenonceau was my favorite.  But we still had one more to see.  After running through the town to try to find lunch..we settled on a croquet monsieur—definitely the worst thing I’ve eaten since being in France.  Then we got back on the bus and headed to Chambord.
 

I’m relatively sure Chambord is a joke.  It is so insanely massive that it is not at all practical.  You cannot heat a building that large.  It has 400 rooms, and 365 fireplaces (which explains the 300+ chimneys you can see from outside), and is just all around ridiculous.  It was meant to be a hunting lodge (I’m pretty sure you could hunt IN the lodge), but the owners ran out of money so it’s not really complete.
 
What they did manage to pay for was a staircase designed by DaVinci.  This staircase is a double helix (like DNA), but when you’re on one staircase, you can’t see the other one.  It is super strange and I had to walk up and down the staircases so many times to understand what was going on.   It was absolutely fascinating though.


 
 
After we concluded our LONG day of Chateaux, we got back on board the bus where we looked forward to resting for three hours.  Wrong again.  The Asian students and our bus driver decided we should have a sing-along.  Really?  We initially refused to participate, being the sassy Americans we are, but once they started whining in Asian tongues we could not understand, we sang the Notre Dame Victory March so they would leave us alone.  After one song, they stopped asking us to participate so it was a great success and a very ND moment for all of us.

So that’s the last two weeks of my life in less than 1500 words.  Congrats for following along folks and I will try to post less lengthy insight from here on out.  Ciao for now.


Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Proud to be Amurrican.

Allo allo.  Yesterday marked the one month anniversary of my time in Angers.  It seems so strange that just a month ago Stephanie and I loaded our oversized luggage in Chantal’s undersized car (this was a struggle…we almost had to walk) and then awkwardly proceeded to have dinner with our new host parents.  Since then I have become très French…although people still can tell I’m American.  I do not know how or why.  This is currently one of the big mysteries in my life…in addition to why don’t the French have water fountains?

On that note, I thought we should celebrate my first month away with a list of things we ND kids miss from the good ole’ USA.  Enjoy!
-Large cups (especially filled with coffee).  As much as I enjoy the sentiment of “quality means more than quantity,” I do not appreciate doing a shot of Coca-Cola when I want a cup.  It is not fulfilling nor worth the 3 Euros I just paid. 
-Wearing sweatpants.  The French are never underdressed and they ALWAYS have heels on.  How they make heels and cobblestone streets work together, I have no idea.
-Understanding the rules of the road.  Are bicyclists cars?  Do pedestrians have the right of way?  If one of us goes Regina George meets bus, then I suppose we’ll know.
-Third floor classes in DeBart.  After sixth floor classes in Bazin at 8:00a.m. I will never complain again.  On the upside, I am going to have killer glutes when I come home.
-American men.  They are significantly less creepy than the French.
-Diversity…oh wait…
-Having the toilet and the sink in the same room.  Do you want to know how many germs are on the doorknobs in between??
-Any type of sandwich other than ham.  Why do the French refuse to put other meat on a sandwich?  I do not know.
-Texting with a full keyboard.
-South Dining Hall.  One day, our cafeteria served bacon wrapped hot dogs…as the only option.  Ew.
-The Oscars.
-Snow…hahahaha.  Jokes!
-Flushing the toilet at night.
-Wearing colors…any colors.
-Peanut butter, hot vegetables, and Portillos/Cheesecake Factory (okay that one was more Amanda’s).
-Dryers that actually dry your clothes…although Stephanie and Maya really enjoy when I hang my damp clothes all over our bathroom. 
-Efficiency.  Any action can be made less efficient by the French. 
-And last but not least, I certainly miss my friends and family.  I don’t necessarily wish I was tromping through inches of snow with you, but I do wish you could be here to share this experience with me.  Thank you for your emails, gchats, letters, and support.  I love you all.

All jokes aside, I am loving France (so much so that I may never return!).   Everyday teaches me something new; I am learning about a new culture, learning a new language, and most importantly, I’m learning what makes me happy when I strip away my comfort zone.  This is such a beautiful experience and I wouldn’t change it for anything (unless someone wants to send me peanut butter of course…) CIAO FOR NOW! Les bisous!